The Cotswolds from London in a day: how to get there by train and which villages to see

If you want to spend a day out of the metropolis in the "real" English countryside of honey-coloured stone cottages and hedgerows, that's the Cotswolds — a hilly region west of London where the villages look straight off a postcard. And you can reach it from London without a car, by train — with a change onto a local bus. Here's how to get there and what to see.

Getting there from London without a car

Trains don't reach the famous villages themselves — they run to a town on the edge of the Cotswolds, and a local bus takes you the rest of the way. The two main starting points are Paddington and Marylebone stations.

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From Moreton-in-Marsh, Pulhams 801 buses run to Bourton-on-the-Water (about 30 minutes) and Stow-on-the-Wold (about 15 minutes). Bibury is trickier: from Kemble station a bus to Cirencester, then another on to the village. Key tip: local buses are infrequent and in many places don't run on Sundays — check the timetable in advance or you risk getting stranded.

Four villages worth the trip

Bibury. The famous stone lane Arlington Row — a row of 17th-century weavers' cottages, one of the most photographed sights in England. The artist William Morris called Bibury the most beautiful village in the country.

Bourton-on-the-Water. Nicknamed the "Venice of the Cotswolds" for the low stone bridges over the River Windrush. It also has a miniature Model Village and a classic-car museum.

Castle Combe. A village with no street lights or telegraph poles — which is why film-makers love it: War Horse and Stardust were shot here.

Stow-on-the-Wold. A historic wool town around a market square. Famous for the north door of St Edward's Church set between two ancient yews — often said to have inspired the "doors of Moria" — and The Porch House pub, reckoned one of the oldest in Britain.

How to plan the day

• Without a car you can realistically cover one or two neighbouring villages (say Bourton and Stow from Moreton-in-Marsh). Trying to tour the whole Cotswolds in a day by bus won't work.
• Leave early: the first direct train from Paddington is around 07:50, leaving a full day to wander.
• With a car or a guided tour you can see three or four villages in a day — the choice for those who want to cover more.
• What to do there: a slow walk, tea and scones, village pubs and shops. The draw here isn't a single sight but the atmosphere itself.

Late spring and summer are best, when the front gardens bloom — but golden autumn on the stone walls is no less lovely. Popular villages get crowded at weekends and in season, so arrive early.